My mom makes Italian-style biscotti – no butter, no oil. I’d place three or four of them in a bowl and crush them with a potato masher into unevenly sized crumbs. Then I’d whip some cream to stiff peaks, fold the crumbs into it, and put the whole concoction into the freezer during dinner. It would freeze into a semifreddo-like dessert, studded with crunchy chocolate biscotti chunks and strewn with crumbs that turned the cream gray, like cookies and cream ice cream.